Day Twenty-Two:  Day of Rest in Camp

Passed on the river safari this morning to catch up on the blog (no internet where we are and am falling behind, as well.....sorry!)

The morning safari people got excellent footage of hippos charging the boat!  

After lunch and some rest time, we headed out on a self-drive safari and I was thrilled to be able to do the driving!  I had Alesa and her dad, Richard, in the car with me.  We had a guide vehicle so we wouldn't get lost (it's a huge park with sand and dirt roads heading in all directions) and this time, we had way more success than our morning drive!

We saw elephants, zebras, monkeys, warthogs, eland, sable, kudu and hippo as well as various types of birds.

Driving was awesome!  I got footage of a herd of elephants at the water who then headed up an incline towards the trees.  Our safari guide went to follow them and then realized they'd stopped at the trees and one large female had turned to face us and was looking distressed.  He waited for them to move on but they held their ground and I didn't like the look of it so I turned our vehicle to the side ready to make a quick escape, if necessary.

It was definitely an "African standoff"!

Finally, they backed up a bit so our guide and two of our convoy went ahead up over the rise and perpendicular to the elephants but now between them and the water so, if they charged, the middle vehicles would be trapped.  I followed tentatively but I was not going to get caught in that trap so I gave the vehicles plenty of time to pass by the elephants and make sure they weren't charging before I started to pass by them.    I told Alesa and Richard they had to snap their photos fast because I wasn't stopping!  I just saw the big one flapping its ears and I stepped on the gas!  By the time we went by, they had turned and started to go into the trees so the next two vehicles were safe.

 

After that excitement, things settled down and we were just snapping pics of everything we could. The sand driving was challenging but manageable and then Richard said how he'd heard that when driving in sand, you could take your hands off the wheel and just let the sand ruts steer the car.  I gave it a try just for fun and it worked!  Alesa took some video of me driving with no hands on her camera and then I asked her to take some on mine!   What a hoot!   It was actually easier in a way because you weren't struggling with the steering.  The car just followed the tracks beautifully as long as I kept a nice steady speed of about 15km/hr on the speedometer.

We returned for our 7 pm dinner feeling elated about our very successful and exciting safari drive!

Tomorrow....another self driving tour to Mamili Park.....JT

Day Twenty-One:   Kwando Camp Safari

Breakfast at 7, safari at 8.  Either that or breakfast at 6 and safari at 7.  Either way, it's becoming the norm and we're getting more and more anxious to see the elusive cheetah and leopard - only a select few of us have seen either this trip.

This time, it was 9 people in a safari vehicle leading us and 5 of our trucks with the usual suspects.  It was a fairly long drive to get to the entrance and then a lot of driving through the park to see wildlife. The watering holes are always a good bet but this time, we were out of luck.  We kept trying for what seemed like ages and finally started to see some animals but they were very shy and didn't stick around as soon as they "made us".

Saw elephants, impala and a few zebra but not much more so came back a little disappointed.

That afternoon, we headed out at 4:30 pm for a little sunset cruise on a pontoon boat to hopefully catch some hippos and crocodiles along with the gorgeous African sunset.  It was a hot, balmy night but, thank heaven, very few mosquitoes.  We saw beautiful birds like the lilac-breasted roller, ibis, pied crows, hawks and eagles.

We turned a bend and it was Linda who asked the guide, "Is that a hippo?" as she pointed to what appeared to be some dark round floating pieces of wood in the water.  "Yes!" answered the guide and everyone scrambled to get their cameras ready!  We got a few good pics of gimongous hippo eyes peering at us just above the water line before they sunk below the surface and disappeared.

Then our guide picked a safe spot to moor (at least we assumed it was fairly safe!) and opened up the cooler to offer us some cold drinks and snacks as we watched the beautiful African sunset - always different, stunning, red and blazing!

Back in time for dinner and an early night......

Until tomorrow.......:)......JT

Day Twenty:  Road to Kwando Camp on Kwando River

Enjoyed a more relaxing morning having breakfast out on the patio and taking in the scenery now that it was daylight.  Some horses wandered by the riverside below the balcony and a few of the group went down to visit them so we snapped away.

On the road at 9:30 am and again, was a straight stretch but a little more traffic this time and some big trucks to pass so our convoy got separated and we had to stop and regroup and agree on a speed limit to keep up to the leader who had set a fast pace.   Our car resumed the cryptic crosswords which really helped pass the time as the scenery was not anything like it had been in Naukluft Park or Etosha and there was no wildlife except for the odd cow crossing, goats on the road or burrows wandering aimlessly.

We had chosen to drive right through without a lunch stop but we did need to make a few gas stops and toilet breaks - as challenging in the gas stations as they are in the wild.

I drove for as long as I could then handed the reins over to Noel and he drove the last leg.  Again, our river camp, Kwando, was down a sandy, dusty road, this time past traditional villages with the locals waving at us as we drove by.   Kwando River Camp is right on the Kwando River which is a natural border between Namibia and Botswana.   Our little hut is right on the river with a little raised balcony maybe 3 feet above the river's edge.   Don't lean over if a hippo or croc is in the area!

It's hot here and humid.  36-41 degrees daily.  What little breeze there is off the river is delightful.  I couldn't wait to have a shower and change out of my two-day old clothes then head to the bar for what is becoming the drink of the trip - a refreshing G&T!  That and a delicious meal by the welcoming staff and we were ready to hit the hay as tomorrow will be an early morning game drive!

What animals will we see then???........JT

Day Nineteen:  (Part Two) - Road to Rundu - Guest Blogger - Sylvia Faore

Well, another travel day!!!  Up at 6:30 am, B/F at 7:00, leave at 8:00!  There is some discussion about the travel route.  One way is paved and longer and the other way is shorter but dusty, gravel road.  We all let the CHIEF decide.  We are taking the dusty road.  We first stop for gas, fill up Number 2 for the car, Ash, Derry, Sylvia and Brian.   The tank empty can hold 140 liters!  We fill up 121.87 litres.  The cost is $1566.05 SA Rand or Namibian Dollars, approximately $156.61.  (The first fill was 110.485  liters for a total cost of $1381.06 which is $138.11 Canadian).  Not bad.  Michael has estimated the gas to be around $161.00 per person (4 per car) for the trip.  Will be interesting at the end of the trip to check the total.   

Now off to the bank for some needed cash.  Standard Bank of Namibia does the trick and the limit is $3000.00 Namibian Dollars which we cannot use anywhere else.  On the way back to the car, 2 young boys beg for food.  They say they are hungry.  They look 6 and 9.  I ask them their names, (Moses and Desmond), and their ages (they are 12 and 15).  Very dirty and no shoes.  We give them a bag of food from the truck.  They keep smiling and waiving and thanking us.  They have an extra plastic bag the cookies were in.  They open every package of chips and crackers and divide them equally.  They do this while busily chomping away on the chocolate shortbread cookies.  The duplicate packages, they take one each.  They wave, smile and thank us again each walking away with a bag of food. 

Namibia has over 50% unemployment.  Derry has an older gentleman asking her to purchase a Nut Keychain. He has a kind face and looks desperate.  He lowers the price to $30 Rand. (Along this trip they have ranged  from 50 -100 Rand). She just wants to give him the money but his pride insists on carving her name into the nut.  We have paid it forward today.  A good way to start the day.  It has been just over an hour and Bill calls for a stretch and a pee break.  He says "men on the left of the vehicles and women in the middle of the road"!  Bill has it wrong, it is men on the right!!   LOL!!!

Stopped for a very nice place for lunch.  Guestfarm Ghaub.   A former Missionary station from 1895. It is situated in the fertile northern region of Namibia. The land has been divided into two farms, dairy livestock and maize plantations.   Lunch was Beef Steak, potatoes and warm beets, coleslaw on the side.  Desert was vanilla ice-cream with chocolate sauce.

Off on the road again for the longest stretch now.   Heading to Kaisosi River Lodge.  It is a long drive as we head to Rundu.  The area is definitely getting greener with more vegetation.   As we get closer, we see the poorest of people living in shacks.  Some made out of straw, sticks and mud, corrugated metal and stones.  The kids are just getting out of school.  They are everywhere.  The school zone is 80 km, this would surprise the people at home.  The kids are all happy and smiling as they wave to us.  They are carrying large containers of water home.  Little ones are rolling the drums with the older kids.  Goats, cows, sheep and chickens are everywhere.  We see a skinned goat  hanging from a tree, probably tonight's dinner.  

We reach the Lodge at 6:45 pm.  We are stiff, tired and in need of a cool one!  We all meet in the bar and everyone cheers!  The lodge overlooks the Ovango River across from Angola.  Wild birds everywhere, and 2 resident peacocks and an owl.   Horses and sheep are put away for the night so that the tourists do not get scared in the morning thinking that there are wild animals roaming the property.

We lounge around the patio reminiscing about the last couple of lodges and the events of the previous nights.  A cool drink, new friends, fire burning beside us and the sound of donkeys braying in the night! I went to bed and I dreamed of Africa.


Cheers.......SF

Day Nineteen:   (Part One)  - Road to Rundu,

Pulled out of Toshari Lodge at 8:30 am, heading for a gas station and a bank for people to fill up at both!  Found these services in Outjo, about half an hour away.   Then we headed for Otjiwarongo (or,as Noel put it, "Ottawa, the jungle").  (Noel is from Toronto and I lived in Ottawa for 10 years. Easterners will understand the "digs" to each other).  :)

No breathtaking scenery on this drive but miles of flat land that was either grassland or dry, white earth with the same dead-looking, sparse, black trees that the elephants love to hide in.  We also saw termite hills everywhere that stood between 5 and 7 feet tall!  Huge mounds of earth that grew to a massive high point and were the colour of whatever the earth was at in that particular spot (red, white or yellow).

For lunch, Michael had pre-booked a local cattle farm that was on the way and it reminded us of the other oasis we had lunched at the day we thought we were on the moon with the bleak surroundings. The farm was called Gastefarm Ghaub (Ghaub Guest House) and also had been a former Mission, originally established in 1895.   It was most recently bought by an Afrikaaner from Windhoek who grew maize on 250 of its hectares and raised beef cattle on the rest.  He had also renovated the main building and accompanying structures to be a main lodge and 12 guest houses.  The grounds were beautiful with a huge lawn, gardens, a pool and nice walking paths.

We were efficiently served a delicious lunch of steak (of course!) along with roasted potatoes and cooked beets in their own tasty sauce.  Lunch also included a salad and dessert along with that.  Cost? $15.00/person plus what you had to drink.  Beer is usually about $1.50 which is about the same as water and juice.

Back on the road, it was straight highway for miles with small villages every 20 km. or so.  A "small village" being 5 - 8 thatched huts surrounded by a woven stick fence as high as the huts.  The only indication that we were approaching a village were the signs posting the speed on the side of the road.  Instead of the average 100km./hr., the sign would say 80 km./hr. and would be followed by a school sign.   Villagers, including children who looked as young as two, walked down the side of the road.  Children would be walking to or from school or playing with makeshift soccer balls (rags tied in a ball) or sometimes helping their mothers carrying laundry, water or goods on top of their heads (you do not see men carrying in this way, only women).

To pass the time in our car, Alesa got out her IPad and pulled up cryptic crosswords.  I had heard of the game before but never dared try it.  Well, after some coaching and Noel impressing us with his "savant-like" answers within seconds, and Lynn and Alesa coming up close behind, I struggled to put my brain in gear and wrap it around these confusing, twisted, jumbled-up brain teasers of mean proportions.  Way out of my league, I managed to answer about one in 20 before the rest of them - thereby keeping some self-respect and managing to keep my place in the car! 

We finally arrived in the town of Rundu, an actual town with businesses, more development, houses made of metal and concrete and garbage in the streets.  It looked like a manufacturing town with a lot of labourers and factories.  There were many people walking in the streets to get to wherever they needed to go looking hot, tired and worn out.  We drove through this bleak-looking town and then turned off down a sandy, dirt road that took us for miles past hovels, heaps of garbage piled on the side of the road, and the construction of multiple housing that all looked like identical little square cement houses lined up military style - not African style, at all.  For me, it was sad to see this kind of "civilization".

Could this desolate, dusty road actually be leading us to a decent bed and meal, we wondered?  Leave it to the travel agent.  He, himself, had stayed here last May and found the place on the river to be warm and inviting.  Indeed, when we finally drove through the gates and saw the main lodge with its dark red bricks, dark wood frame and huge thatched roof like the ones in England, we were relieved. Inside was a large room that housed the reception and restaurant and, off to one side, was a beautiful little bar made from polished slabs of hardwood that gave it a cozy, rustic feeling.  Our rooms were very quaint as well with fresh, crisp white sheets and duvets on the beds and protective mosquito netting hung decoratively down around the bed like royalty.

The name of the lodge was Kaisosi and it was on the Ovango River, a natural border between Namibia and Angola.  It was hot and humid so the breeze from the river gave us a bit of relief from the cloying heat.  Because we had arrived late and were leaving early, I had elected to leave my suitcase in the car.  After a quick freshen up after the  long, hot drive, Alesa and I headed to the bar for a really cold beer before dinner.  It was there we met Frankie (friendly, funny and happy) and Joe-Black (Joe dash Black), a truly engaging and delightful young man of my eldest son's age, who kept us entertained for the rest of the evening.  After dinner, a few of us sat out on the deck with the cool night breeze and he regaled us with stories much to our delight!

Until tomorrow.......JT

Day Eighteen:   Etosha National Park

Third day in the park (second for some of us) and this time, in our own vehicles so that we have air conditioning and no dust but lead by two trackers in their own vehicles to help us track down the game (plus, they carry the coolers with cold drinks and lunch!).

We arrived at Andersson's Gate but this time, had to wait for quite a while to get in.  Apparently, it was their first day with a new computer system.   Fortunately, we got processed as a group so when our turn came, the people behind were sure grateful for 7 vehicles pulling through all at once!

Back to Okaekuejo to the "boxseats" watering hole for more unbelievable scenes of animals gracefully making their way - always watching warily and stepping gingerly.  Got pictures of 3 giraffes drinking in their awkward way - front legs spread apart and bent as far as possible with their necks stretched way down to the water.  It was impossible to catch them all drinking at the same time as they seem to instinctively know who's taking a breather so that one of their heads is always up to watch for predators.  It was like watching a choreographed dance with the 3 heads - two up, one down, in all different patterns!

On the way to the next watering hole, we saw a desert fox for the first time lying peacefully in the shade of a lone tree off the road about 40 feet.  At the watering hole, we saw jackals skulking around and 3 warthogs scaring off the other game as they made their way to the water for a drink. 

The next watering hole had what someone referred to as a "kudu convention".  We had never seen so man kudu together in one place.  Hundreds of beautiful big bucks with their distinctive stripe down the sides of their body and their mid-length, slightly-twisted horns that always look so majestic.   Off to the side was a large male ostrich with its 8 tiny little baby ostriches running in every direction so he had his hands (wings?) full!  The female was a little further away taking an obviously much- needed break!

Suddenly, the tracker pointed out a lion to us that was lying in the grass under a tree that was way across the watering hole - probably 1/2 km. away!   We strained our eyes and it was Lynn who first found him and then, over the shortwave, tried to explain where it was so we could all try for a picture. It must have taken 5 minutes of her carefully explaining his position for anyone to see him as he blended in so well into the sand he was lying in and behind a log.  Only when he made a slight movement and you happened to catch it, could you make him out.  Lynn, of course, lucked out and got a fabulous picture of him with his head up surveying the kudu at the watering hole.

 
I got a pic of him lying down but you can't see him in the picture unless you know it's him.

We had noted the outside temperature at 23 degrees when we left at 8:30 am.  It was now 11:30 am and the temperature outside was 36 degrees!  (By the hottest part of the day, it reached 41 degrees!)

We again stopped for lunch in a shaded picnic area at Okaekuejo and then some headed back to the Toshari Lodge while some chose to continue the hunt for lions.

More stories to come.......sorry for the delay......have been out of internet service for almost a week!.......JT

Day Seventeen:  (Part Two) - Guest Blogger - Lynda Rabson  -   Into Etosha on our Own

Today was the big day.  We were going to venture into Etosha "the Great White Place" National Park, Namibia in our own vehicles.  

Etosha National Park is 22,270 square kilometers.  The "Pan" (salt lake bed devoid of moisture at this time of year) measures 110 km east/west X 60 km north/south and covers an area of 4,590 square kilometers.  Apparently, catfish (barbel) and water turtles hibernate approximately one meter under the dried, cracked surface of the Pan and await the return of water.

All of the cars, except the Rabsonmobile, were going for a half day drive.  Richard, Lynda and Alesa were going to set out for the whole day, promising to return to Toshari Lodge by dinner time.  The Park is open from sunrise until sunset, approximately 12 hours, 7 am - 7 pm.

We entered the Park through the Andersson Gate.  The vehicles parted ways at the Village of Okaukuejo at the southwest corner of the Park.  

We (the Rabsons), headed east from the gates visiting some semi-full, man-made watering holes and some bone dry.  

The Pan would not be filling with water until the rainy season (Nov - Jan).   After driving less than an hour, we came across a group of 4 cheetah just finishing their morning nap.  They were HUGE.  We got some great pictures before they had their post-nap stretch and disappeared down an embankment.

We continued on to a number of other marked "spots to stop".  We came across herds and herds of zebra and wildebeest.  The wildebeest , whose hearing and sense of smell are bad, stay fairly close to the zebra for any signs of danger.

Multitudes of springbok, impala and ostrich can be seen almost every time you look out the window.

At one "stop", where a dead elephant lay, jackals circled the beast.  They shared the kill, when they could, while the 2 female and 2 male lions lay napping nearby in the shade of a tree.  The lions seemed to have had their fill of food and got up only once to drink from the watering hole before they huddled together under some reeds for another sleep.

We drove as far at Von Lindequist Gate at the south east corner of the Park  where we had lunch.  After devouring a sandwich, we backtracked westward visiting some new "stops" and some former visited "stops".

The scenery is forever changing as the animals are continuously on the move.  Just as we were about to head back to the Lodge, Lynda spotted 3 leopards at the side of the road and she pulled over.  She had enough time to raise her iPad, point it in the direction of the leopards and press "video".  Within seconds two of the leopards crossed the road at full speed with the third lying in wait at the side of the road.  The two that had crossed the road were approaching a herd of springbok from behind and they flushed them from the bushes, forcing the herd to run across the road where the 3rd leopard was waiting.  The herd and the 3 leopards then disappeared into the bush.

We sat in our car for about 5 minutes trying to decifer exactly what it was that we had just witnessed.  TIMING IS EVERYTHING!

PS. We made it back to the Lodge in time for dinner.

Lynda Rabson

Day Seventeen:  (Part One) - Guest Blogger - Susan Bittante - Back into the Park

Today, part of our group decided to have some rest & relaxation at the lodge.  The rest of us ventured out to Etosha National Park with our own vehicles.  I think yesterday's bumpy, dusty & hot (40 degrees) game drive, in the open-air Land Rovers, made us long for air conditioning & comfort!
 
Richard, Lynda & Alesa drove on their own, while the other 12 of us drove together in three vehicles. Michael, our tour leader, decided to let Gino lead the group for this outing.  Ironically, Anna was the driver!  Gino had a map of the park & his trusty GPS, so was the back seat navigator & critic!
 
We got off to a bumpy start when we missed the turnoff to the first watering hole, Gemsbokvlakte. However, after that, it seemed smooth sailing & we drove to eight watering holes & two rest stops without getting lost!  We were getting used to seeing springbok congregating under shady trees beside the road, or crossing in front of our vehicles!  We stopped for a few minutes, while Roger fixed his spare tire rack, which swung open on the bumpy, gravel road.  Luckily, there were no predators around!   

Driving further into the park, we came upon some vultures feasting on a recent kill.  We reached our prettiest watering hole, called Homob, with a reed covered island in the middle. We saw ostriches drinking & bathing, along with springbok, zebras, oryx & a lone wildebeest.  Then, when we visited the Salvadore watering hole, way out there, under a tree, were three lions!  Thank goodness for zoom lenses, as they were difficult to see with the naked eye when lying down in the tall grass.

Our highlight before lunch was visiting the Nebrowni watering hole where elephants were playing in the water, blowing bubbles!  A couple of the larger ones had a few words & gently butted heads, interlocking their tusks.  We were the only three vehicles watching the "elephant show".  It was mesmerizing to watch & Gino remarked, "It doesn't get any better than this!"
 
We took a time out for lunch & refreshments in the park town, called Okaukuejo.  Some of us, not driving, enjoyed a refreshing, double gin & tonic for $3 CAD!  Then, off to the watering hole at the edge of town.  We were about to leave, when a well-hidden male lion arose from under a tree & walked to the water to drink, scaring away the herbivores that were quenching their thirst.

Our day was complete.
 
We saw lions & elephants & we will resume the hunt for the other big cats, leopards & cheetahs, tomorrow!

Susan Bittante

Day Sixteen:    Etosha Game Viewing

We all loaded into four Safari trucks with Michael taking his car for those of us who were fighting colds and maladies and weren't sure if we could get through the long day.

These safari trucks had higher-placed seats with tarp doors for a little more protection from the big game animals (still think a hungry lioness could do a lot of damage if she wanted to, tho')!  Although the temperature was pleasant in the early morning, the actual drive at about 80 km. an hour was cold and we bundled up as best we could to stay warm (thx for the loan of the vest, Brian!).

Once through the gates of Etosha National Park at Andersson's Gate, there were paved roads but, after a while, they were dirt and sand and the dust coming at us was nasty.  We soon pulled into a beautiful desert resort (Okaukuejo) that had a castle turret at its entrance.  We drove through the camp past little huts and guest houses to a parking lot from where we walked to a huge stone fence.  As we neared the fence, we realized it was a wall between us humans and a huge watering hole for the animals!

It was breathtaking to see them heading in huge long lines down to the watering hole for their morning drink - like animals heading for Noah's Ark.  There were hundreds of zebra and springbok along with wildebeest and oryx.  One lonely giraffe made its way slowly down to the edge of the water, keeping a close eye behind itself and around until, finally feeling safe, it spread its front legs and stretched its long neck down to take a refreshing drink.

We sat for about half an hour in the "box" seats that were conveniently constructed for our viewing pleasure.  It was like a giant Imax theatre but all real!  Unbelievable!

Back on the road, it wasn't long before we saw a lone bull elephant lumbering to the left of us about 50 feet away.  The guide explained he was alone because he was about 45 years old and had been sent away from his herd.  The old elephant stopped, turned and looked at us allowing us to get some excellent photos.  It is almost uncanny the animals behaviour.  Who is really watching whom?

Our drive took us over long roads through various terrain that hid the animals perfectly.  Giraffes in tall, leafy trees (they eat the tops and make them flat on top); zebras in gray six-foot thick shrub; and even elephants in that same shrub, disappear!  And, of course, lions in low, golden fields of wheatgrass.

We entered a sandy driveway to a large watering hole and there before us were dozens of zebras, too many to count.  Alongside them were springbok, wildebeest and oryx all drinking in the water or wading in it or in long, straight lines to get there.  It was so amazing to just sit and watch the scene before us of these beautiful animals in their natural environment and oblivious of us just a hundred yards away.

On the road again, getting dirtier and dustier with each leg of the journey, our mission was to find the 3 big cats that can be so elusive - lions, leopards and cheetahs.  Our driver stopped at one point asking another guide coming from the other direction what he had seen and we got the word that lions were in the area!

We drove on excitedly straining our eyes as best we could to try to make out the lions when, suddenly, we realized there were vehicles stopped up ahead over a culvert in the road and again "lions" was whispered through the grapevine.  A guide was leaning out of his car pouring water from a bottle at one end of the culvert .  Suddenly, two lions ran out the other end of the culvert and stopped and turned to look at the now 8 vehicles that were stopped.

We were elated to see the lions!  They were a young male and female and they paced back and forth staring at the vehicles, not happy with the situation at all.  The male looked like he was going to run up the ditch and across the road but there were too many cars.  He finally just resigned himself and sat down in the grass.

We had to tear ourselves away to allow other vehicles to move in for the photo opportunity.  We drove back to Okaukuejo to have our pre-arranged lunch at some shaded picnic tables, feeling like school kids helping ourselves to trays of food put out before us.

After lunch, Lynn, Eileen and I weren't feeling well so we loaded up in Michael's truck to get out of the hot, dusty vehicles and get home sooner.  My head was pounding from my cold and I slowly, gratefully nodded off with the gentle motion of the truck.  Suddenly, I was  jerked forward in my seat as the truck came to a hard stop at Lynn's cry of "Elephants!". Now awake, I looked off to where she was pointing and saw three elephants - mom, dad and baby - in the six-foot grey brush off to the left about 100 yards (we're putting Lynn's name in for the "eagle eye" award!).

After lots of pics, we drove on and soon came to a lone tree on the lefthand side of the road that was offering shade to about 18 springbok all huddled underneath it.  They were literally only four feet from the car and just stood there cautiously while we snapped away!

Then, the highlight of the day!  We drew into sight range of the original watering hole of the game drive and there were eight elephants at the site in full view!  We pulled in and parked about 40 yards from these massive animals that had their front legs in the water and were drinking it in with their trunks.

Off to one side were two young bulls wrestling head to head locking their tusks and trying to force each other to back down.  What an a amazing show to watch!  We sat there for a good 20 minutes - completely enthralled and drinking it all in!

Don't think it can get much better than this!.......JT

Day Fifteen:   Leaving Grootberg and off to Etosha, Namibia

On the road again.  And this was a hard departure.  Leaving a little bit of heaven that was Grootberg was not easy for any of us.  We took a last look around at the incredible vista and then literally drove off into the sunrise!

Soon, the beautiful table mountains and rolling hills gave way to huge fields of yellow grass strewn with the same dead looking medium-sized trees that hide the animals so well.  Then the geography turned to rolling hills with more green and foliage similar to the Okanagan, just on a much larger scale.

It had been hot in Grootberg but we had been cooled by the breezes in the mountains.  We could slowly feel the heat rise as we got deeper and deeper into safari land and finally arrived at the outskirts of Etosha National Park where the Toshari Lodge, our next destination, was situated.

When we drove up the lane to the lodge and exited our air-conditioned vehicles, the heat hit us like a furnace blast!  Well, you know the drill by now.....yep, off to the lodge to be greeted with a cold juice and then the really thirsty ones just continued to the bar for a cold brewski while others retired to their rooms for an afternoon siesta.

We met up again for cocktails at 6:30 pm and sat down for dinner at 7 at a long table they had prepared for our group of 27.  We are now starting to be in malaria country although if you read the books, they say that Etosha is malaria free.  Regardless, all of us have started our pills by now and there is mosquito netting in some of the rooms (hit or miss, the group doesn't seem too concerned). There are a few mosquitoes and unusual bugs that we haven't seen before but other than being annoying, they seem pretty harmless.

Early to bed tonight because it's our first big game safari tomorrow and we need to be off at 7 am sharp (breakfast at 6), and it will be a long, hot day!

Night, night..........JT

Day Fourteen:  Guest Blogger - Sylvia Faoro -  Tracking Desert Elephant

Well, the day has finally arrived with much anticipation.  It is our day for our Desert Elephant tracking excursion. 16 of the 27 are going and we are all up at 5:30 am, breaky at 6 and leave at 7:00. We have a long drive this morning with the Elephant Tracker and 3 guides. We eventually arrive and drive off road. It is very rocky and bumpy. The twigs and branches hurt as they whip across the body. Brian and Jo-Ann get the worst of it! The first vehicle gets stuck in the sand as he tries to make it up the hill.  After 3 attempts he makes it, we all clap. Our driver guns it up the hill no problem. The last vehicle now feels the pressure to make it and tries to go another way but to no avail.  Our driver, Ernst, says that, "Prince Charles", is scared.  He fails at the first attempt but makes it on the second try. We all applaud him.

The Tracker is out of the vehicle and looking for elephant tracks. He finds them. We drive one way and then another.  I feel like we are going around in circles. The drivers plough through bushes higher than the windshield and drive over barbed wire fences. The first vehicle gets the barbed wire stuck in his rear wheel. It only takes 5 minutes to get it out.  Yes, we find elephant DUNG!!!!  The tracker says that the dung is 4 days old.  We call our driver, Ernst, the poop tracker. He points out that white poop is from hyena's, the Lion poop is full of fur and the elephant poop is full of grass. 

All of a sudden the tracker is out of the vehicle and gone!!!  Within minutes he is on top of a hill in the distance.   He spots the elephants but they are heading over the hill and down.  We are told to get out of the vehicles as we are going to track them by walking.  EXCITING!!!!!! We start out on foot with cameras and extra batteries.  Excited and nervous at the same time. We get about 20 yards from the vehicles when the tracker says that the elephants have turned around and are coming to us.  Wow! We are really excited now!  Everyone rushes to their vehicles and gets ready.  It is so quiet, you can hear a pin drop. The drivers are on top of the vehicle hoods or roofs. We are hanging out of the vehicles while managing to hang on and balance our cameras.  OMG, they are here!

Beautiful,Amazing, Awesome, Surreal!!! I tear up as I see my first one, heading straight for us. 

The cameras are clicking away fast and furious.  Everyone is excited as we all want the PERFECT shot.  We think there are about 10 or 11.  At least 5 babies and a couple of teenagers.  The Matriarch stops and looks at us - eyeing us up and down while protecting her herd.  FABULOUS!!!

Everyone is elated and satisfied. The tracker gets 3 cheers!  A job well done and well in advance of anticipated timing. We head home over rocky terrain, nothing bothering us as we are on Cloud 9!

At dinner, Sylvia announces Brian's proposal and they thank Michael for making all of her dreams come true.  It is also Ricki's birthday.  The servers bring her out desert and tea lite candles.  They sing Mamma Africa and Happy Birthday!!!!
 
A perfect ending to a perfect day!!!

FACTS

These  elephants are 1 of only 2 groups in the world, The other lives in Mali, North Africa.

• They have a smaller body mass and larger feet than other elephants.
• There are only 600 to 800 of these elephants left today.
•  Gestation is 22 months.
•  Elephants only have 4 teeth, one is each side of the upper and lower jaw.
•  An adult male can drink up to 160 liters of water a day.
•  They eat mostly green vegetation. 
•  They favor camelthorn trees and seed pods and Mopane.

 

Cheers!.....SF

Day Thirteen:   Daytrip to visit the Himba Tribe

Up for 7 am breakfast and 8 am departure in 3 safari vehicles.  Headed out the driveway of the Lodge, past the watering hole where we again saw springbok, along with a number of oryx and kudu. They are semi-comfortable with the "traffic" so we can get excellent pics from about 20 feet away!

Down the steep incline of the driveway and then on the road heading for the Himba Tribe.
The Himba Tribe is one of the remaining traditional tribes of Africa now residing in Namibia that is protected by the government and is helped by the very lodge that we are staying at as part of a Conservancy for the area.

On the way, our vehicle was last in the convoy and our driver pulled off the road and drove into a schoolyard.  This was an unexpected surprise!  The children were just starting their recess and were pouring out of the school doors to see and look at us with curiosity.  They looked on while their head teacher took us for a tour of the school and loved it when we took their pictures and then showed them to them on our cameras!  Some of our group had chocolate bars, candy and even soccer balls and the kids were thrilled to receive them!  After lots of handshakes, smiles and goodbyes, we left the school and continued on our way.

The Himba live in a remote area called Kaokoland (our Lodge is in Damaraland) and we had to go through an attended gate with a permit to gain entrance.  There was no real road except for some suggested tire tracks on the ground so we drove over very rough, rocky terrain (actually making good use of the safari vehicle for the first time!) as well as deep sand and river beds.  It took about 30 minutes to drive the remaining 6 km.  to the village at the slow, bumpy pace we were going.

The village we visited was Village #1, which the guide described as the 30 and under village.  Village #2 was for 30 - 50 year olds and Village #3 was for over 50 and was the "Elder" village from which the other villages took direction and approval.

I forgot to mention that our driver had prepped us along the way with the Himba greeting (Morro!)  and response (Nawa) and "thank you" (Okuheba).  When we arrived at the village, the lead guide told us to wait in the trucks until one of the guides had introduced us and the women in the village had come to greet us.  It wasn't long before the villagers came out and began greeting us exactly how the guide had explained to us.  The next thing you know, we are shaking hands with these very primitive people and they are friendly and smiling and happy to be sharing their culture with us.

The village population is small.  There is maybe a total of 40 in the village with women and small children being the majority with one third being young men.  There is a chief of the Village and,in his absence, his wife is in charge.  All things must be approved through her.

The Himba women are distinctly dressed in fur and leather skirts with a leather belt, if they have a child, to help her support it so that her hands can be free to work. They wear ankle bracelets to cover their ankles as they are the most secret part of the body and in the anklets are a white one for each child they've had.  They also wear necklaces of beads, and women who have not had a child wear an additional very thick one.  Most distinctive is their hair which is done in thick braids with fur woven into the ends.  On top of their heads as part of the headdress were two pieces of leather standing up almost like two small rhinoceros ears.

Their skin was the colour of a rich dark reddy brown and the colour of all their gear blended in as one.  The most unique thing about the women is that they never bathe.  That's right.  Never!  They take ochre and grind it with rocks into a very fine powder and then mix it with jelled cow fat and rub it all over their bodies.  They then take small pieces of tree bark mixed with some cow fat and light it to create a scented smoke which they then waft all over their bodies as well as holding their clothing over the smoke to scent them, too.  Every woman has her own distinct scent from the different bark they burn.

There is so much more I could write but it would go on forever.  Again, sorry, but you will have to Google the rest or wait for the paperback!

At the end of our "lesson", they formed a circle and put all their crafts out for us to look at and bargain for (very important to bargain!) if we wished.  All in all, it was a very different experience.

Once the group had done their "shopping", we loaded back into the trucks and back down the rocky, sandy riverbeds.  Soon, the guides found a big shady tree for us to enjoy a bag lunch under and we were enjoying a cold drink and the birds overhead (except when they decided to "gift" us with their droppings!).

After lunch, I couldn't resist climbing into the driver's seat and asking him if I could try driving the vehicle.  He thought I was joking but I assured him I wasn't and told him that I drove a standard at home and knew what I was doing.  Well, he looked a bit trepidatious at first but I guess he figured I would either stall out or give up on my own, so relented.

Very excited and a little nervous, I checked I was in 1st, one foot full on the clutch, one on the brake and already in 4 wheel drive and then I turned the key.  Nothing.  What?  I checked everything again and turned the key again and again, nothing.  Ok, this was weird.  He was sitting behind me and I just turned to him and asked if there was something I didn't know about the vehicle?  He smiled, climbed down, reached in and turned the key. Again, nothing.  Now he looked worried and played with his key chain and some buttons a bit and determined that he had some lock on it and fixed it.  Thank heaven it wasn't me!

The vehicle started up fine, I shifted into reverse to get back up the little sandy incline before shifting into first and driving over a bumpy patch before heading through the dried- out river bed with sand on both banks.  Well, I made it, much to everyone's surprise, I'm sure, and I was ready to keep on going but they all cried out, "Ok, that's great, Jo-Ann, but that's enough!" Well, of course, I was disappointed in their lack of faith in me but I think it had more to do with the insurance coverage being void if I was behind the wheel!   Still, it was a blast to have had the experience!

We made our way back to the Lodge up that crazy driveway with the insane incline and all poured out of the vehicles for a cold beer on the patio.

Our next safari drive at 4 pm was supposed to be a drive by a river bed to see the river animals but, because it was bone dry, the guide took us up on one of the table mountains, instead.  The next thing you know, we're driving along  on what feels like the top of the world!  And it wasn't long before we saw a small herd of zebras off in the distance that was perfectly silhouetted against the sky - perfect for clearly seeing them without background camouflage!

As we neared the edge, the drivers pulled into a little dip on the plateau and stopped for us to.get out and have some refreshments.  There, before us, lay the entire valley of browny-green foliage uninhabited for miles and miles and stretching out until it blended into a soft mist in the horizon.  The flat tabletop mountains were all exactly the same height as if some great laser had cut through them like a knife.  The mountains and valleys rose and fell like a great scenic expanse and it took us a while to take it all in and try to comprehend once again this vast, amazing country.

As the sun started to fall on the horizon, we headed back in time for a delicious meal prepared by the staff and to catch the sunset as it left its twilight glow on the eastside of the mountain range below our chalets.

Tomorrow, elephant tracking!!! ........JT

Day Twelve:   Guest Blogger - Lynn Zeldin  - We drive the Skeleton Coast

Off to Grootberg, Damaraland on the Skeleton Coast.  Twenty minutes out of town, the T belt sign came on in our vehicle, causing all sorts of consternation and worry. Contact with rental company produced an "ok" to keep going, but to be on the safe side, we returned to Swakopmund and got a second opinion from a garage mechanic.  He was German so we had every confidence in his diagnostic skills and decided to continue on.

The scenery is pretty boring today - very flat and not too much variety.  There are the occasional signs for fishing spots, but mostly just a 1 and 1/2 lane, undivided road heading due North.  Beige sand with sporadic hillocks of grey-green hardy plants extend to the horizon in all directions for much of the drive.

Unfortunately, our vehicle scare delayed us such that we missed our scheduled lunch stop at the Cape Cross Restaurant, pre-booked by Michael.  I'm sure it was much tastier than the stale bun and cheese eaten in the truck parked outside the Permit Office at the Cape Cross Seal Reserve (arf! arf!). Permit fee was too steep for a short visit to see the seals, so we passed.   Let them suffer, bwah ha ha!!!

Back on the road again, still heading North, no one else on the road at all, except us.  We rolled up to the gates of the Skeleton Coast - appropriately a double gate with two skulls and crossbones flanked by a couple of ribs.  Yo ho ho, me hardies!  Once through, the terrain was even more desolate.  Desert, desert,desert - no buildings, towns, sites - oh!  An old rusty oil rig and lots of Inukshuks!  Are these a global phenomenon?

We have now entered Damaraland and the landscape has drastically changed once again - mountains, rocks, fields that stretch for miles.  We've been told that this is now land that has the greatest concentration of free-roaming lions in the world.  We have to beware of those and of snakes from here on in.

A quick tally thus far.  Total game sighted: 7 springbok, 5 Oryx, 2 ostrich, 1 hyena, 7 giraffes, and 17 baboons - a grand day's drive.

Passed through a small community - a collection of homes, hovels really, plus a liquor store and a medical clinic.  It really brings home how lucky we are.

Sylvia believes she saw an elephant in the bush on the way down to the valley.  Unfortunately, no one else did, but quite a memorable event for her.

When we arrived at the driveway to the Lodge, we faced it with a bit of trepidation - not doubting Jo-Ann's driving skills for one second - just looking at the veritable goat's path leading up at a 45 degree slope, with boulders jutting out of the path and cliffside, and a drop to the valley on the other side.  Definitely 4-wheel drive time in Low gear!  Jo-Ann persevered and delivered us in fine fashion.

At the top of the driveway climb, we were greeted by lots of oryx and springbok gazing at us with curiousity.  We stared back in delight.  They didn't seem impressed.

We went into the main lodge and were greeted by our welcoming host with refreshing drinks and then escorted to a deck which overlooked a valley beyond description.  Envision gazing out over Jurassic Park, The Land That Time Forgot and The Lost Valley - that is sort of close to what we were looking at.  It was mind boggling!

Each of our individual huts had thatched roofs with comfortable beds, private baths, and sliding glass doors that overlooked the same view.  I swear I thought I had died and gone to heaven.

 



After a stellar dinner and a walk under a million stars back to this wonderful little nest, my hubby and I fell into a deep and peaceful sleep.   The day had been perfect.

Ciao for now..........LZ

Day Eleven:   Self-Drive into Naukluft National Park

Up bright and early again and, this time, for a self-driving tour of Dorob Park which is inside Naukluft National Park, one of the largest parks in the world.  

We drove out of Swakopmund and, once again, encountered endless fields of golden grass wheat sprinkled with sparse trees and low-lying grey-green shrubs.  We were driving along when we heard on our shortwave radio (up to now, our radio had not been working and we didn't realize how peaceful we had had it!) that Gino was requesting we take a turn off into this particular park that housed a tree that was 1500 years old.  Since we didn't have a set plan and the day was young, Michael (our fearless leader) agreed and off we went in search of the tree.

It wasn't long before we were driving in the most desolate hills and valleys that were completely devoid of life of any kind.  It was grey, black shale and rock and yet it was fascinating unto itself.  We stopped a few times to capture different angles and striking views.  All the time, we were heading down into a valley and suddenly we came around a corner at the bottom of the valley and there, in front of us, lay an oasis that looked like The Garden of Eden dropped into the middle of Death Valley.

 




There were towering palm trees, grassy fields, beautiful gardens and a lovely building that we later found out was originally a Mission.  There were picnic tables and a small playground for little ones. There were quaint little homemade fences of sticks and rope housing goats, alpacas and pigs.

We were anxious for a bathroom break so we parked in the lot and started to explore the grounds. Some of us were fortunate enough to catch the male peacock that was outside the wall of the building that housed the washrooms.  Once he saw that he had an audience of about 6, he suddenly raised his tail into the most stunning plume of feathers and proudly did a complete 360 for us so that we could ooh and aah and show our admiration while madly clicking our cameras.  At one point, he even gave a shake and a squawk and then fluffed them up even more which, of course, earned him even more accolades and you could tell he was pleased.  When he felt he had given us enough of a show, he gave a loud piercing cry and then the tail went down and he turned and walked away.   What a show and we loved it!

After enjoying the beautiful grounds for about 15 minutes and chatting with the proprietor to let her know we were in search of the ancient tree, she kindly gave us helpful directions and we promised her we'd be back to enjoy the hospitality she so kindly (and anxiously) offered.

We continued our search and it took us up out of the oasis and back into the bleak hills.  Suddenly they opened up onto a plateau from which one could see forever off into the horizon.  As Richard (Alesa's dad) said, "Who knew that barren could be so beautiful!", and there was no better way to describe it.

More driving, more radio contact about the GPS location of the now "infamous tree" that we were "tracking" and then, finally, just as we were about to throw in the towel (hot, starving and thirsty), there it was!  Surrounded by a fence to protect it, a huge Welwitschia tree, the oldest and largest of its kind, looking like its younger compatriots that we had seen strewn over the barren land.  It resembled a creepy, crawly land octopus with its long, green tendons reaching out over the desert.  Able to survive on little or no water, this plant was approximately 1600 years old and therefore, one of the oldest trees recorded by man.

We were so relieved to have fulfilled our quest because we were all hungry for lunch!  We returned to the oasis and happily enjoyed some nice cold drinks and delicious food while taking in the soothing, refreshing surroundings.  We did get a history of the place and found that, because it had natural springs, it was a welcome watering hole for both man and beast when oxen were the vehicle of the times (mid to late 1800's).  It flourished until the steam engine allowed trains to circumvent the valley in the early 1900's and it became abandoned, rundown and would have disappeared except for the uranium mines which started in the 1960's.  One local entrepreneur saw an opportunity and started to get the locals to help rebuild and refurbish the building and grounds in the early 2000's and the current owners run it as a restaurant and guest suites.  They were very happy to have our business and encouraged us to spread the word about their wonderful little hideaway - Goanikontes Oasis. (Google it!) :)

Drove back to the hotel for rest and relaxation (and me to my blogging!) before heading out to a local eatery - Swakopmund Brauhaus - for delicious German and international food and some reverie with a group of Germans who numbered 28, almost like us!  And, when learning we were Canadian, told us they were going to Vancouver next June, followed by the Alaska cruise.  It really is a small world, isn't it?

Gino and Susan at the Brauhaus

Tomorrow, the Skeleton Coast!..........JT

Day Ten:   We head north to Swakopmund, Namibia

Up at 6:30 am, still revelling over the night before but excited to be continuing the journey.   Made another quick breakfast of home fries, toast and eggs before cleaning up all the kitchen supplies and leaving it ship shape for the next party.  Loaded up our truck with Noel and Lynn and they excitedly told us about their leopard spotting at 4:30 am in the morning when Lynn was woken by something crashing into the BBQ on the patio, followed by a deep low growl of a large cat. She reached over and held Noel's arm firmly to wake him and let him know something was up but not to make a sound. They both carefully got out of bed to peer out the flaps and, although they couldn't see anything, they could hear the thundering sound of a large animal running past.  The sound faded out and then gradually grew louder as the animals came back towards the tent.  Noel saw two dark cat shapes sprint past the tent, about 20 feet away.  He discerned they were larger than a lab but smaller than a mule.  The cats turned and thundered past again and, this time, they breaked hard and stopped.  A few seconds later, Noel and Lynn heard a faint squeal and then all went silent.  A few hours later, when the sun came up, Noel went out to look for paw prints and found distinct cat prints that were half the size in length of his size 10 foot and about 5 inches in width!  If Alesa and I hadn't slept so soundly, we would have heard all the excitement!

Today was my first time driving.  On the left side of the road, don't forget. Being as there was little or no traffic, no traffic lights, no markings on the roads and broad shoulders, there was very little trouble I could get into.  It was just pure exhilaration driving in a 7 vehicle convoy across the open roads of Africa!

We made it back to Solitaire, our lunch stop from two days before, but this time for coffee and pastries in their renowned bakery.  Everything was amazing except for the delicious-looking cinnamon buns that, unfortunately, ended up being hard as rocks.  Once everyone was sufficiently coffeed up, we got back on the road and headed North for Swakopmund.  And once again,we were blown away by the vast expanse of terrain that is hard to imagine in size.  If you've ever driven through Saskatchewan, try multiplying that by 5 times and you'll come close to the vastness.  The scenery changes in such an unusual way that you notice but don't notice until you realize you are looking at an entirely different terrain and you wonder when it changed.  We went from dry desert sands and black hills in the distance to low-lying rolling hills with pale bits of green shrubbery to bigger hills sprinkled with black shale-like rocks jutting perpendicularly out of the ground.

The next thing we knew, we were driving through a barren stretch of land that was white, gravelly rock and sand for as far as the eye could see, and, when I say that, it truly means that! Suddenly, we were coming to a stop and we didn't know why on earth we would because there was no living thing, plant or animal, for miles. Then, we saw it! A sign! A BIG sign! It said, The Tropic of Capricorn!!! We all piled out of our vehicles and crowded around the sign for the photos that everyone was excited to get!  There was no other indication of any kind that we were there, just that huge sign but it was cool and we all wanted a record of it!

It wasn't long before the barren white gray terrain slowly turned to rolling gold hills speckled with sparse trees and foliage.  Heading for the coast, the temperature started dropping and by the time we got to our destination, Anchor Restaurant at Walvis Bay, it was about 15 degrees and we were all surprised to have to don our sweaters and jackets because of the cold wind.  The restaurant was ready and waiting for us with a big long table and the service was efficient and pleasant.

We had only been sitting for a few minutes when we spotted out the window a porpoise and her calf swimming across the bay in front of us only about 20 feet from shore. She swam back and forth a few times until she simply disappeared, leaving us holding our cameras ready in vain.

Following our delicious lunch, we got back on the road (after a quick battery charge for one of our vehicles' lights that had been accidentally left on), and headed Northeast to Swakopmund. We continued on through vast expanses of land that is so vast, it's "uber-vast", to the point of being surreal.  Imagine Planet of the Apes, Land Before Time, and Moonscapes all rolled into one and you have a taste of Africa.

Pulling into Swakopmund, a quaint little German-influenced town, was a juxtaposition after such immense landscapes.  We found our hotel, Deutsche Haus, quite easily and poured out of our trucks tired and thirsty for a cold German beer and a good, hardy German meal and we were soon enjoying both.  Then we all tucked into our rooms with fresh clean sheets, down pillows and duvets for a good night's sleep after a full and exhilarating day!

Sweet dreams......JT