Day Eleven: Self-Drive into Naukluft National Park
Up bright and early again and, this time, for a self-driving tour of Dorob Park which is inside Naukluft National Park, one of the largest parks in the world.
We drove out of Swakopmund and, once again, encountered endless fields of golden grass wheat sprinkled with sparse trees and low-lying grey-green shrubs. We were driving along when we heard on our shortwave radio (up to now, our radio had not been working and we didn't realize how peaceful we had had it!) that Gino was requesting we take a turn off into this particular park that housed a tree that was 1500 years old. Since we didn't have a set plan and the day was young, Michael (our fearless leader) agreed and off we went in search of the tree.
It wasn't long before we were driving in the most desolate hills and valleys that were completely devoid of life of any kind. It was grey, black shale and rock and yet it was fascinating unto itself. We stopped a few times to capture different angles and striking views. All the time, we were heading down into a valley and suddenly we came around a corner at the bottom of the valley and there, in front of us, lay an oasis that looked like The Garden of Eden dropped into the middle of Death Valley.
There were towering palm trees, grassy fields, beautiful gardens and a lovely building that we later found out was originally a Mission. There were picnic tables and a small playground for little ones. There were quaint little homemade fences of sticks and rope housing goats, alpacas and pigs.
We were anxious for a bathroom break so we parked in the lot and started to explore the grounds. Some of us were fortunate enough to catch the male peacock that was outside the wall of the building that housed the washrooms. Once he saw that he had an audience of about 6, he suddenly raised his tail into the most stunning plume of feathers and proudly did a complete 360 for us so that we could ooh and aah and show our admiration while madly clicking our cameras. At one point, he even gave a shake and a squawk and then fluffed them up even more which, of course, earned him even more accolades and you could tell he was pleased. When he felt he had given us enough of a show, he gave a loud piercing cry and then the tail went down and he turned and walked away. What a show and we loved it!
Up bright and early again and, this time, for a self-driving tour of Dorob Park which is inside Naukluft National Park, one of the largest parks in the world.
We drove out of Swakopmund and, once again, encountered endless fields of golden grass wheat sprinkled with sparse trees and low-lying grey-green shrubs. We were driving along when we heard on our shortwave radio (up to now, our radio had not been working and we didn't realize how peaceful we had had it!) that Gino was requesting we take a turn off into this particular park that housed a tree that was 1500 years old. Since we didn't have a set plan and the day was young, Michael (our fearless leader) agreed and off we went in search of the tree.
It wasn't long before we were driving in the most desolate hills and valleys that were completely devoid of life of any kind. It was grey, black shale and rock and yet it was fascinating unto itself. We stopped a few times to capture different angles and striking views. All the time, we were heading down into a valley and suddenly we came around a corner at the bottom of the valley and there, in front of us, lay an oasis that looked like The Garden of Eden dropped into the middle of Death Valley.
There were towering palm trees, grassy fields, beautiful gardens and a lovely building that we later found out was originally a Mission. There were picnic tables and a small playground for little ones. There were quaint little homemade fences of sticks and rope housing goats, alpacas and pigs.
We were anxious for a bathroom break so we parked in the lot and started to explore the grounds. Some of us were fortunate enough to catch the male peacock that was outside the wall of the building that housed the washrooms. Once he saw that he had an audience of about 6, he suddenly raised his tail into the most stunning plume of feathers and proudly did a complete 360 for us so that we could ooh and aah and show our admiration while madly clicking our cameras. At one point, he even gave a shake and a squawk and then fluffed them up even more which, of course, earned him even more accolades and you could tell he was pleased. When he felt he had given us enough of a show, he gave a loud piercing cry and then the tail went down and he turned and walked away. What a show and we loved it!
After enjoying the beautiful grounds for about 15 minutes and chatting with the proprietor to let her know we were in search of the ancient tree, she kindly gave us helpful directions and we promised her we'd be back to enjoy the hospitality she so kindly (and anxiously) offered.
We continued our search and it took us up out of the oasis and back into the bleak hills. Suddenly they opened up onto a plateau from which one could see forever off into the horizon. As Richard (Alesa's dad) said, "Who knew that barren could be so beautiful!", and there was no better way to describe it.
More driving, more radio contact about the GPS location of the now "infamous tree" that we were "tracking" and then, finally, just as we were about to throw in the towel (hot, starving and thirsty), there it was! Surrounded by a fence to protect it, a huge Welwitschia tree, the oldest and largest of its kind, looking like its younger compatriots that we had seen strewn over the barren land. It resembled a creepy, crawly land octopus with its long, green tendons reaching out over the desert. Able to survive on little or no water, this plant was approximately 1600 years old and therefore, one of the oldest trees recorded by man.
We were so relieved to have fulfilled our quest because we were all hungry for lunch! We returned to the oasis and happily enjoyed some nice cold drinks and delicious food while taking in the soothing, refreshing surroundings. We did get a history of the place and found that, because it had natural springs, it was a welcome watering hole for both man and beast when oxen were the vehicle of the times (mid to late 1800's). It flourished until the steam engine allowed trains to circumvent the valley in the early 1900's and it became abandoned, rundown and would have disappeared except for the uranium mines which started in the 1960's. One local entrepreneur saw an opportunity and started to get the locals to help rebuild and refurbish the building and grounds in the early 2000's and the current owners run it as a restaurant and guest suites. They were very happy to have our business and encouraged us to spread the word about their wonderful little hideaway - Goanikontes Oasis. (Google it!) :)
Drove back to the hotel for rest and relaxation (and me to my blogging!) before heading out to a local eatery - Swakopmund Brauhaus - for delicious German and international food and some reverie with a group of Germans who numbered 28, almost like us! And, when learning we were Canadian, told us they were going to Vancouver next June, followed by the Alaska cruise. It really is a small world, isn't it?
Gino and Susan at the Brauhaus
Tomorrow, the Skeleton Coast!..........JT
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