Leopard

Leopard

Day Thirty Eight - Flight from Dubai over the North Pole to Seattle.......The End

Miles to destination - 6800
Flying at approximately - 560 mph
Flight time - 12.5 hours

Flying in a plane is amazing, isn't it? Take thousands of pounds of people and luggage and the food and beverage to feed those people and stick them in a silver tube with some wings sticking out the side and brilliant aero-dynamic engineering and voila!  You're up in the air and time traveling.

Get a window seat and keep checking outside and you see the most amazing sights from a perspective you can't get any other way.

We're flying over Russia....the barren, endless deserts and mountain ranges that are impassable.  But no, wait, there are roads or, at least, what appear to be roads, that go on and on for miles and miles and miles.  Who, in their right mind, would want to cross that "nothingness"?  Where nothing can survive.  Where there is no life of any kind, no beauty, and no friendliness.  Just lifelessness and the end of life if you try to pass without all of the right tools, equipment, supplies and necessary transportation to fight nature to make it through!

 

We spent a month traveling simply two-thirds the periphery of only one country in Africa (with a few "pop-ins" to other countries) on a 5200 km. journey and you read the various types of geography, vegetation, life and animals I wrote about.  And now, passing over thousands of miles of lifeless desert in a matter of hours, is so dramatically different.

I'm in the back of the plane (I like it because it's cooler and I mean temperature).  I think its noisier back here but that's okay.

All of a sudden, I hear the engines get very loud and realize the pilot must be  taking the plane to a higher elevation.  I switch from my movie to the "flight view" and see that, sure enough, we're going from 28,000 feet to 33,000 feet.   I'm watching the numbers go up and am fascinated when the pilot hits 33,007 then back down to 32, 999, then back up to 33,004, then settles on exactly 33,000 and only goes between 32,999 and 33,001.  That's good piloting!

The next phase is going over the North Pole and again, it's frozen, white tundra and again, it doesn't end for hours .....and hours...and hours.....

Night falls and everyone tries to sleep. I close my eyes but sleep never comes....and each time I check outside, it is just pitch blackness.

Then, finally, light starts to appear and on the horizon is the most amazing sliver of orangey red and yellow.....and I see the beginning of day stretched across the sky and the  earth that is breath-taking. 

We have now risen to 38,000 feet (must remember to ask the pilot why do we keep increasing altitude?

Only 5 hours to go.....2 more movies and then, finally, I can see actual mountains...,gorgeous, wonderful mountains of Northern Alberta!  Then, slowly, little towns, rivers, farms and finally, we approach Seattle with the stunning bright colours of fall in their finest glory of reds, oranges, yellows amid the proud great green trees of the Pacific Northwest!

We're home!!!

A slight delay in the airport as Michael's bag was gone through with a fine tooth comb (we all waited for over an hour wondering what the heck he was doing?!).

Then an easy, comfortable coach ride back through the border and the Villa in Burnaby where we all said our goodbyes and had last hugs before going our separate ways!

Thank you to a great group and hope all the "blog " readers enjoy our trip "vicariously"!

Until next time!.... JT

Day Thirty Seven - In Dubai once again

Well, after an overnight flight of just about 9 hours with fitful sleeping, 2 1/2 movies, 2 meals and only a little turbulence, we arrived safely in Dubai at 5:45 am. Picked up by coach and taken to a hotel half way between downtown and the airport where they agreed to take us at 7:30 am in the morning, probably the earliest check-in I've ever been in on!

Everyone disappeared to their rooms for a much-needed nap!

At noon, a shuttle left for the big famous Emirates Mall with the indoor ski slope.  I was on a mission to get back to the Souq Madinat where I'd met Trevor's traveling companions on my first Dubai stay.  There had been some awesome items I'd seen that I wanted to bring home for souvenirs!

Fortunately, the Souq and the Mall were not far from each other so I did both! 

Souq Madinat is new but built in the traditional Arabic style with rich dark wood ornate ceilings and features and sand-colored thick walls.  Flowing through the Souq is a 5 km. waterway - blue and refreshing looking - that you can take a boat on for a tour.  A gorgeous hotel is featured with guest suites that overlook the waterway -Venice style.

Boutique shops and old-style wooden shopping carts lined the "alleys" of the Souq just as they would have been in the streets of centuries ago.

I lunched in a lovely restaurant by the water with a cool breeze keeping the sun at a bearable temperature while watching the little boats carrying people to their shopping or adventures.

Thinking that I should really check out the famous Emirates Mall, I reluctantly went there and regretted it as soon as I did.   But that's just me.  Not the biggest shopper in the world and preferring history and local flavour to brand names and glitz, I wandered around and was only fascinated by the indoor ski slope with a penguin pool - THAT was certainly impressive!

Met up, fortunately, with Klaus and Gerrit but, unfortunately, led them astray on a taxi ride from hell back to the hotel(s!) which cost three times as much time and money! (note to self - don't leave your hotel without the hotel address somewhere on your person - duh!).

Finally back at the hotel, exhausted and sleep-deprived, one beer was all I needed to put me into dreamland!

Tomorrow...,, home again, home again, jiggety jog.... JT

 

 

Day Thirty Six - Last day in Cape Town with Flight to Dubai

Everyone moving a little slower this morning as it's just time to pack up and check out by 11:00 but not leaving for the airport until 3:00.

Went back to the Waterfront with Bill, Ricki, Eileen and Roger. Walked around and saw a couple of guys experimenting with the jet pack in the Harbour. 



Talked Ricki into going on the Ferris Wheel to have a last look around Cape Town. Convinced her we wouldn't get stuck up there.  And we didn't!  (thank heaven or I'd never hear the end of it!)

Had a beer and some seafood and burgers in Ferryman's, an historical building renovated into a pub.

Got back to the hotel and ended up leaving early for the airport. (hurry up and wait!)

Flew out on Emirates Air at 6:10 pm. 

Waking up in Dubai tomorrow morning.... JT

 

Day Thirty Five - Franschhoek Wine Tour
 
Same excellent guide and bus driver as Day 33.

Cape Town also has a sea wall walking path.  The Atlantic on one side with rocky and sandy shores and on the land side, green lawns with gardens, playgrounds, mini put, workout stations with full gym equipment.

A Lighthouse erected in the late 1800's is affectionately known as  the "moaning Nellie".

Robben Island, formerly home of the prison for convicts and lawbreakers, has been converted to a heritage island and the prison, a museum.

Today, we 're headed west along the coastline. Past working Harbour with huge ships, cranes and storage docks as well as a huge fleet of fishing boats of all shapes and sizes. We passed rolling green hills, golf courses, little streams lined with the beautiful Scandinavian pines and other lush green trees and bushes. As we drive further West, we came past the oldest township known as "Langa". Some "Shanty towns" in the Cape Town are slowly being converted to block housing. Migrant labourers originally lived here. Colored townships were built by the Apartheid government for the colored people.The poverty is apparent here. But slowly the area is being converted and tidied up. Fences built around the homes along the highways are to keep the livestock in. Goats, cows, chickens are part of the lifestyle of the townships.

A few miles out of Cape Town, there is a huge township.1.5 - 1.7 million and is the second largest in South Africa next to one in Johannesburg. 

"Hottentots". The row of low lying, jagged mountains off to the West.
We past a movie site for "Black Sails" with 3 life sized pirate ships in different positions and a town set from that era.

Entering wine region of Stellenbosch.  More than 600 wine estates.  Town of Stellenbosch named after second governor of South Africa. Rolling hills with greenery everywhere and rows and rows of vineyards perfectly symmetrical throughout. Tuscany but on a larger, grander scale. Stellenbosch is a lovely little historical town with heritage homes and quaint restaurants and coffee shops. The town was planted with oak trees in its beginning and they are now protected which means that all buildings must be built around the trees. They cannot be endangered.

The University in Stellenbosch keeps the town alive as its population is 22-23,000 of mostly young people.  Classes taught in Afrikan. Male and females dormed separately. Expulsion immediate if caught in wrong one.

Dutch gave open passage to French during British invasion. French helped Dutch with their wine making.

Driving past the village, we started climbing through hills and vales of lush greenery bordered by dramatic rocky mountains on either side. Similar to the valleys and mountains in Switzerland.  

Hard to believe this is the same Africa of the harsh, lifeless, stark, rocky areas we'd seen in Namibia or the red dune deserts. How diverse the country and each area as striking and breath-taking in its own way.

On the way to our final destination, we stopped at a village where there was a prison where Nelson Mandela was released from.  He had his own residence but it was completely bugged.

Our final destination is Solms Delta Winery Estate in Franschhoek where we had a tour of a very small winery with excellent wines made from combinations of grapes. The wine-tasting that followed put the group into a jovial mood, even in the sweltering heat! 

 

After the tasting, we walked down to a lovely shaded lawn beside a cool stream and enjoyed a delicious picnic lunch packed in traditional picnic  baskets.  Lunch was ribs, chicken, meatballs, cheese and crackers, potato salad, broccoli salad, and buns along with dessert of donut balls and custard squares. Yes, enough to feed an army! 

After lunch, we managed to make our way back to the bus in the scorching heat of the day and collapse into the air conditioned coach in relief!

Back to Cape Town with a quick stop in the darling little boutique town of Franschhoek, which is to Cape Town what Monterey would be to Los Angeles. A wealthy bedroom community.

The bus was very quiet on the drive back. I think we were sleeping off the wine and the large meal!

Back to the hotel and a nice refreshing shower and then off to dinners to our own destinations.

A perfect end to a perfect day......JT

Day Thirty Four - (Part Two)   Penguin Day - Guest Blogger - Alesa Rabsen

Hey everyone, JoDashAnn has asked me to guest blog for the day. Unfortunately, as a 20-something from the tech generation, I can only communicate through short sentences and quippy afterthoughts. So here we go with what yesterday's Twitter feed would have looked like if we had access to wifi.

 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

GuestBlogger: Stoked to see penguins! #Capetown #adorable

Carmenita: ...and seals, don't forget the seals!

GuestBlogger: Of course not.

GuestBlogger: Yet another 9am morning... #Yawn #WheresMyCoffee

GoodGollyMissMolly: finally picked the right side of the bus #PictureTime

GuestBlogger: Driving down the coast along the feet of the #TwelveApostles. #ActuallySixteenPeaks #SomeoneCantCount #PublicEducation

GuestBlogger: Back in #HoutBay! #dejavu

GuestBlogger: Do we have time for seals? Always! #DoYouHaveToAsk

GuestBlogger: Giant crowd forming! How big is this boat?

LadyLynda: As long as we all get on!

RandomDutchWoman: watch yourself, lady. #MeFirst

GuestBlogger: Break it up, you two. #HandsOff #ThinkOfTheChildren

GuestBlogger: Cast off! Slap on the sunscreen and grab the cameras.

GuestBlogger: Seals, ho! So cute. There must be hundreds just sunbathing on the rocks and bobbing around in the waves. #DuikerIsland #DrumbeatCharters

GuestBlogger: Baby seals doing baby seal things. #CutenessOverload

GuestBlogger: Awesome street performers greeting us back at the dock. Sort of looked like an African spin on a barbershop quartet.

GuestBlogger: Back on the bus, heading out to the Cape. #naptime

GuestBlogger: Happiness comes in many forms. One of these is baby ostriches. #fluffballs #ItsSoFluffyICouldDie #ReferenceToDispicableMe2

TourGuide: Ostriches aren't usually found on the coast either.

GuestBlogger: Silly ostriches. #OstrichGPSisBroken

GuestBlogger: Made it to the Cape! Cape Point, that is. Breathtaking views, but first, time for lunch. #TwoOceansRestaurant

LadyLynda: Spectacular langoustines and calamari. #MustBeFresh #FingerLickinGood

GuestBlogger: I learned what hake is! #TeachableMoment #OmNomNom

GuestBlogger: Time to work off that lunch. @Carmenita and I, and others, hiked the 238m to the lighthouse at Cape Point. #Uphill #SoOutOfShape

MrRogers: Very scenic, very African, very windy. #ViewFromTheTop

GuestBlogger: Walk down the rock, or funicular? #ThatIsTheQuestion

GuestBlogger: Down to the Cape of Good Hope, jostling the crowds to get a decent picture. I thought I might blow away. #SoWindy #WereNotInKansasAnymore

GuestBlogger: Considerations for next time - bring a hat or hair elastic. Or shave head prior to exiting the bus.

GuestBlogger: Off to Simon's Town! #WhoIsSimon #IWantATown

Carmenita: The penguins, the penguins, the penguins, the penguins....

GuestBlogger: Eloquent in her brevity. #SomeonesExcited #MeToo

GuestBlogger: Signs say to not feed the penguins. There's nothing about kidnapping them. I'll need a bigger bag.... And possibly a good lawyer. #Shhh

GuestBlogger: Ten minute walk to the Boulders. Lots of ice cream vendors along the streets. #HowLongUntilDinner

GuestBlogger: Turn the corner and... PENGUINS!!! Waddling about, sitting on rocks, shaking off water. Wiggle wiggle wiggle. I'm losing it over here.

Carmenita: The babies are bigger than the adults. They're molting right now: losing their fluff and getting waterproof feathers. #TrustMeImAVeterinarian

Carmenita: Babies have more fat reserves. They can't swim yet, so they just sit around eating. #NoExercise

GuestBlogger: Living the dream.

GuestBlogger: There must be hundreds of penguins in this little cove. Mostly asleep or basking in the sun, but some heading to and from the water. #TimeForADip

GuestBlogger: I could stay here all day. Except the penguins sound like donkeys. Birds are weird.  But adorable. I'm so conflicted.

GuestBlogger: Had to hustle back to the bus, leaving the sweet little jackasses behind. Not even kidding; this species is called "jackass penguins". #GoogleIt

GuestBlogger: Strolled the main road of Simon's Town. It was straight out of Colonial England. The Royal Navy used to have a major base here, and the South African Navy is headquartered here now. #TourGuideInfo #PayingAttention #MenInUniform

GuestBlogger: Finally got my ice cream. #SpoilingDinner

GuestBlogger: Got back to the hotel with half an hour before dinner. #IDontHaveMyFaceOn

GuestBlogger: Long walk to dinner at the Waterfront. The wind has picked up. A dress was a bad idea. We looked beautifully windswept by the time we arrived.

GuestBlogger: Arrived early! #ThatsAFirst

GuestBlogger: By far the most flamboyant maitre d' I've ever met. #SeelansRestaurant

MikeyB: How are we going to seat all 28 of us? #Worried #WhatDidIGetMyselfInto #HandsOnHips

GuestBlogger: Carefully... And methodically...

GuestBlogger: Good wine, good meat, good golly, let's eat.

AnnaBanana: @Hansmeister, @Margie and I definitely ordered too much. That's a lot of seafood pasta! #EyesBiggerThanStomach #DoggieBag #LeftoversForDays

GuestBlogger: Mixed reviews of seafood, mostly positive. #slurp

SusieQ: I'm pretty sure my steak still had a pulse. #BlueIsTheNewRare

GuestBlogger: The next table is made up of a sailing team devouring a 4m plate of seafood. #HungryHungryHelmsmen

GuestBlogger: Somehow the walk home was even longer. #UphillBothWays #Bedtime

Day Thirty Four - - Free Day in Cape Town

Strolled down to the Waterfront, about a 7 minute walk from our hotel.
Huge tourist area established in 1992 with big, modern mall of glass and wood to feature the ocean views.  

Colorful shops, trendy open air restaurants, Harbour cruises, modern ferris wheel with enclosed seats, and beautiful walkways, playgrounds and sunning areas. Cross between Gastown, Sydney Harbour and Seattle Harbour. 

I took a quick half hour cruise around and just outside the Harbour.  It was a clear blue sky day and the view of all the mountains was perfect! Then took the ferris wheel and saw everything 360 degrees.

Never thought I'd find another city as beautiful as our Vancouver but Cape Town would definitely be comparable!

I know I will come back some day!....JT

Day Thirty Three - Cape Town and Winery Tour

Today's blog is a pot pourri of the Cape Town tour guide's information as well as the blogger's impressions.....

2010 world cup soccer stadium is a White elephant as Cape Town is a rugby and cricket town, not soccer.

Running through town is a bridge that is unfinished in the middle section.  One half has been converted into an indoor parking lot and the other half is used by the film industry - rents out for 50,000 Rand per day to movie companies.

Theories of why the  bridge has never been completed:

1- due to development of townships during Apartheid

2- engineering error - that the two sides actually won't meet properly

Dutch first arrived in 1652.  They were  instructed to set up refreshment station - looking for trade route - Dutch realized that if you controlled station., you controlled the seas.

The towns all have a European flavour with modern and cubism thrown in.

Table Mtn - lower level - 630m  Top level - 1086 m

 One of 7 natural wonders of the world.

 Scandinavian Pine tree - not native to South Africa, obviously. 

Gov't wants to take it down but the people refuse to agree as roots keep sandy soil intact.

Was planted to stabilize the sandy earth of the sloping hills and mountains around Cape Town. 

 5.5 million people live in Greater Cape Town but census is apparently out by about 14%.  Our tour guide, for example, was missed in the census.

Cape Town is bordered by sea and mountains but still spreads out 90 km inland with many suburbs making up the greater city and its population.

Population of South Africa - 57 million.  Johannesburg largest city.

Main language - English but 3 languages spoken Xhosa, Afrikan and English in Cape Town

Upper Cape Town - land given to freed slaves.   Back in the 1800's, the natives painted their homes to let the community know what their skill was (ie. tailor, undertaker, butcher, etc.)

Colour of house stated what you did.

These homes which are now in very valuable real estate were never reclaimed by the government and today, in memory of their ancestors, the homes are painted bright colours of red, pink, blue, yellow - it is very distinctive and eye- catching!

Men sitting in the streets are day workers.  They earn  80 - 180 rand ($8 - 18) a day, no strings attached.  They hope to get picked up each day for work.  Either by shipping or construction co.

Castle built in 1654 in 5 star bastion shape.  Front part now a museum.  Back part still used by military.

City Hall, officer stands on guard below the balcony where Nelson Mandela gave his first freedom speech upon release from prison.

Dutch reformed church still used today and is oldest church in Cape Town.
Long St. between Wale and Buitensingel - party street.  At 2am, more traffic than during day.

MacDonald's has been around for 15 years. Burger king for 2 years and Dominoe's Pizza coming.

Crime rate.  80% of people in and around Cape Town related to tourism so they take good care of their visitors and it is known as safe.

During English reign, judged your status by wrought iron work around home.  

In the old part of Cape Town, there are no skyscrapers due to height restrictions.  Looks like old Holland. Heritage dept. stopping demolition of old buildings.  Special permit to deconstruct if you keep front facade of building.

Biggest convention held in Cape Town was Diabetes  with 15,000 people.

We are in Cape Town at a good time. Pre tourist season.  Not a good place to be during Christmas time.  Weeks, days or hours for reservations and tourist spots.  Even fine dining.

Tall, jutting mountain called Kings Head.  There is also Devil's Peak, Table Mountain, then King's Head, then Signal Hill.

British and Dutch fought over control in early 1800's. 

Climbing a hill heading into the east of Cape Town, the view if the Atlantic is beautiful!  Properties start at 50,000,000 rand (5 million dollars).

We stopped at an amazingly picturesque site which was like a perfect combination of Vancouver, the Amalfi Coast and Halifax all rolled into one.  So stunning that it hardly looked real.  One tiny negative.  The white sand and blue water and rolling waves are of the Atlantic, a freezing 9 - 11 degrees.  :(

Twelve Apostles mountain range were named by a drunken Dutch sailor washed ashore.  (there are actually 16 peaks).

Camps Bay Drive ...like the strip..,you just need a bathing suit and a credit card....all venders have electronic means of purchase.  Palm trees, street artists, beautiful bodies.

Townships are where the street workers live.  60% unemployment and most of what they earn goes to transportation in and around Cape Town.

Constantia Wine Valley

5 wineries

Vineyards on the mountainside.

It is named after the second eldest daughter of the second Governor of South Africa who gave freed Dutch people the land to grow produce to sell to the seaman.  People take great pride in their Gardens and spend a lot of time and money on them. Properties start at 9 million rand.

Vines go back to 1655 but initially were not good.  When the French came,  they perfected the grape growing and wine improved.


Lunch at Groot ("Big") Constantia out in the outdoors under a huge shade tree overlooking the City of Cape Town and the vineyards and the surrounding mountains.  Fabulous!l

Cape Town has one of the smallest ports in Africa but second biggest in South Africa.

What an amazing day of incredible views and fascinating history....am exhausted!  .....,,JT
Day Thirty Two - Flight to Cape Town

Morning departure from Gobabis (Sandune Lodge) on our way to Windhoek to drop off the vehicles.
Really very smooth at Asco......no real problems to speak of. They are an excellent company.
They transferrered us to the airport and away we flew off to Cape Town.

For the next 4 nights we would stay at the Cape Royal Hotel. It was beautifull. Great location.
Fabulous rooms! We are very comfortable in Cape Town.



Michael
Day Thirty One     Road to Gobabis

Left at the reasonable hour of 8:30 am for our drive to Gobabis, a town not far from Windhoek and our last stop before returning the vehicles.

I started out the driving as I was hoping for a refreshing beer at lunch and Noel is always accommodating. The land was flat, the road was straight and the driving was very straightforward.  After all the excitement of the past month, it was rather sobering and sad to be returning and realizing that we wouldn't see the amazing wildlife that we had grown accustomed to.

Because the drive was so uneventful, it was probably the most difficult. Thank heaven for "Cryptic Crosswords" keeping our minds alert!  I was glad when Noel took over after lunch and continued the drive. As we drew close to our destination, we pulled off just a little before the town of Gobabis into some road construction and then a long, one-way drive of orange sand/dirt to lovely little ranch style bungalows with our rooms side by side. 

Sliding glass doors opened up into quaint little bedrooms and each had distinctive artwork, colours and styles but all were rustic and attractive. Cement floors and a huge wooden door for a bathroom door which swung halfway if you wanted bathroom privacy and full way if you wanted shower privacy. 
 

This particular place did have some interesting bugs but they seemed harmless so we ignored them.
Bill and Ricki ended up hosting an unplanned gathering at their place as they had the biggest patio and were the most central. Everyone just brought whatever booze they had left over and couldn't take with them on the plane the next day and we all shared a laugh and some nostalgia about our trip!

The staff pulled together a lovely dinner for us (we were the only guests) and we all hit the hay early as there certainly wasn't any nightlife here! (Except for the "spitting" ostrich behind the fence and we were all warned not to get too close!)

Almost at the end of our journey........JT

Day Thirty    Moremi Park

A day in Moremi is always a highlight. This is my seventh time in the park and it rarely disappoints. It is considered one of the great game parks in Africa.

 

We left the Sedia Hotel on time but with rain threatening for the first time for the whole trip. As soon as we left the tar road and we were on gravel it started to rain. Not much but enough to be concerned on how the tracks would be inside the park. However after we cleared the main gates the rain all but stopped. We proceeded to take a southern track on the advice of Park Rangers because cats had been sighted there during the last few days but no luck. By the time we drove around for a few hours I realize that we are going to be late for lunch that was pre-arranged. It was then a rush through the jungle but we made it. Lunch was great and I am not sure people realize the logistics of feeding 27 people in the bush.


After lunch we started back but needed to go over third bridge that required some deep water crossing. At times the water was two feet deep in places but we all made it in grand style. It was actually the high lite of the day as in the end the game viewing was not at its best.

 

Another reason to come back!

Michael

Day Twenty Nine - Road from Kasane to Maun

8 am departure on the button - not bad for 7 vehicles and 27 people.

I started the morning drive and the route was straight forward and uncomplicated.  The land was flat for as far as the eye could see and we drove past fields of mown down corn that rivalled the prairies.

We weren't on the road 10 minutes when we came upon elephants right on the side of the road and not 100 feet further, there were 4 giraffes!  The rest of the drive, we had to be very careful not to hit cows, burros, dogs, horses, goats and even people either crossing the road or walking right on the edge.

We only stopped for a quick stretch break on the side of the road about half way to Nata, our lunch stop.  The sign at the "lay-bye" (their term for rest stop) warned that we were in a park with wild animals and we were accepting responsibility for the risks that went along with that!

In Nata, we pulled over at a garage that had a little hut with picnic tables, a perfect place for us to have the "snacks" we'd packed from the last breakfast buffet we'd enjoyed at Chobe Bush Lodge.  Some also augmented their lunch with chips and drinks and treats from the garage store.  While we were eating, a few local children came around and looked at us with longing eyes and a number of us offered them sandwiches, chips and treats and were rewarded with big smiles and thank-you's.

We had a minor incident where one of our crew tried to use the local ATM and his card disappeared into the machine.  Fortunately, there was staff there even though it was a Saturday, but the wait for them to retrieve the card and the hassle was typical of the "acuna matada" attitude when we, of course, were anxious to get back on the road!

Nevertheless, there was no harm done and we got to our lodge in Maun well before dark which was the biggest concern given the state of the road (wicked potholes!) and the risk of hitting animals!

The Sedia Hotel is a more authentic lodge than some of the modern ones we have been staying in.  The lobby is full of huge wood carvings of elephants, hippos, cape buffalo and warthogs all sprinkled around the floor so you have to be careful not to trip over them.  There are huge wall tapestries done in vivid dark colours of giraffes, natives dancing, elephants and lions - all woven by locals in distinctive, earthy, unusual styles.  The walls are painted a dark, earthy red and there are masks and carvings hanging on every wall that isn't covered in the tapestries.



We were met by two lovely receptionists who called out "Welcome to the Sedia Hotel" over   and over again while passing out cool fresh cloths for us to wash our faces with and fresh juice for us to quench our thirst (this has been the tradition at most of the places we've stayed at and it is quite lovely).

They had our keys all lain out and then showed us our rooms.  It was very,very hot so we unloaded the cars as fast as we could and then made a beeline for the pool and some to the bar.

This was definitely a "locals" hotel as the pool was full of the natives on their own holiday!  So many children laughing and playing and screaming in the pool....it was so fun to watch!

They had a long table set out for us and a buffet of salads, vegetables, kudu, lamb and chicken and fabulous chocolate cake and vanilla sauce for dessert.  Unfortunately, Molly was late to dessert (not sure how THAT happened and she missed out on the cake - not happy!). After dinner, I was on a mission to get the blog posted so tried to get online.  The router was situated at the bar, just behind the dinner table on the patio so I sat there patiently waiting for a signal.....it took forever.

Finally got on and was able to send the blogs to Michael who posted twelve days in one night!!!  So, we're back in business!  Thank you for your patience!

Still more adventures to come........JT







Day Twenty Eight - Photo River Safari - Guest Blogger - Susan Bittante

Today, most of the group enjoyed a day of relaxation. Seven of us (Michael, Bob, Rita, Noel, Lynn, Gino & myself) ventured out on an early morning (5:45 am) photographic river cruise.
We boarded the safari boat at the dock at the Chobe Safari Lodge, maneuvering over the decks of two other boats to get into ours. The boat had 8 swivel seats, firmly attached to the centre line of the floor & they pivoted 360 degrees. Attached to each seat was a telescopic arm, housing a very nifty Nikon camera. The arm reminded me of the same contraption used in a dentist's or ophthalmologist's office.

Once Lynn, our guide, assisted us with the necessary adjustments for the camera, our skipper, Smart, took us on an epic journey along the Chobe River.
As it was a photographic cruise, attention to lighting was paramount & we captured beautiful photos of the birds & animals that we have enjoyed on our African travels.
Some of the birds we filmed were the Fish Eagle, African Darter, African Jacana, Pied Kingfisher, Open-billed Stork, Yellow-billed Stork, Great White Egret, Cattle Egret, Long-toed Plover, Squacco Heron, Goliath Heron, Sacred Ibis, Egyptian Goose & the common barn swallow.


An unusual bird included the scavenger Marabou Stork, with its imposing gullet, hovering
around the carcass of a Cape Buffalo, which had died 3 months ago. Another interesting bird was the Spoon-billed Stork, whose bill was shaped like a spoon! Surprise?!
The endangered bird that we met on the island marshes is called the African Skimmer. These birds fly parallel to the water, skimming small fish from the surface. There are only 18-24 breeding pairs left in Chobe, due to boats approaching too closely & causing large wakes on the shoreline, where they lay their eggs. The birds are scared & fly off. Their eggs, left unattended, either overheat from the tropical sun, or wash away from these wakes. Our guide is involved with a conservation group, trying to educate tour boats to respect the habitat of these birds, so that the population will recover. We learned that the Red Lechwe is also an endangered antelope due to farming on the wetlands.

The Impala are one of the hardiest antelopes, as they are both grazers (grass eaters) & browsers (leaf eaters). We observed a fierce fight between two dominant males, for the right to breed with the female herd that was standing by & watching the spectacle. They locked horns & wrestled in mud, until blood was drawn& the loser was chased away!

Then, we witnessed a very unusual & impressive occurrence! There was a stampede of Cape Buffalo, obviously spooked, charging towards us from the mainland to the island, falling in the boggy marshland, picking themselves up& finally arriving at their destination. Even our guide has rarely seen this behaviour & we were most fortunate to capture it on film!
Another exciting event was motoring by a large pod of hippos & seeing several of them open their huge mouths for us! The boat was singing with all the clicking of the cameras! A couple of the hippos were either fighting or engaging in foreplay, as they continually locked their open jaws. What a sight!
We saw a very old crocodile, with it's knobby nose, estimated to be at least 50 years old!
The crocodile's only predator, the Monitor Lizard, was also basking in the sun. This blue-tongued lizard will eat the crocodile's eggs, which is why most of the 80 eggs that the crocodile lays never develop. We returned to the dock, with our photos & smiles, as we will definitely remember this wonderful river cruise!


Happy Halloween, everyone!
Bye for now!
Susan Bittante, guest blogger




Day Twenty-Seven:   Morning Safari, Free afternoon

All ready to go at 6 am this morning so we were on our way and again I was with 5 others in Tracker Den's vehicle.

He asked us what we wanted to see and we said "cats", of course!  We just didn't feel we had seen enough of them!  Sylvia piped up that she also wanted to see elephants as we'd only seen the one on the river safari and those are her favourite animal.

So Den was on a mission.  We started on the same road down by the river and spotted waterbok, impala, Cape buffalo, hippos and plenty of birds.  Den was looking carefully to the left, away from the river, trying to spot any cats that might be trying to make their way down.  Then he got on his radio and got wind of a pride of lions in the area and he took off like it was the Indie 500!

We thought the drive with him the first day was rough and wild but it was nothing compared to the way he was driving now!  We got thrown around and bumped and bounced off our seats and it was everything we could do to hang on!  He was grinding the gears through sand, coming up on other safari vehicles and forcing them to move over so he could pass and taking the initiative to keep right on going if a vehicle came at us from the opposite direction.  He would just smile and wave and he always had this awesome smile on his face.  He was lovin' what he was doing!  His mantra was, "No cats, then no tea and coffee!" (the traditional mid-safari break).  We were all on board with that so he was good to go!

Finally, we pulled up to where a few other vehicles were stopped and there, before us, was a pride of lions lying and sleeping among the trees about 80 feet away.  Some lifted their heads to see what all the excitement was about and then would lazily put them back down again.  They were lying in pairs, heads touching or mothers were lying with their cubs close by.  We were snapping pictures like crazy because we had never seen so many in one spot out in the open like that -  totally uncaring as to what we were doing.

After we had a good turn at the pictures, Den moved on so that other vehicles could get the same viewing opportunity.  We then went and had our "coffee break" and felt so good to have seen such a sight.  After the break, Den said it was time to find a leopard and off he went like a crazy person again.  And again, he got us to where there was a freshly-killed impala hanging up in a tree where a leopard had left it secure from the hyenas and where it could keep an eye on it from a bush nearby. 

We tried our hardest to see the leopard in the bush but it was not to be so we moved on.  We found out afterwards that it had actually walked out shortly after we left and strolled to a different bush nearby to get closer to its kill but we missed it.  And those in our group who were there and saw the leopard walking weren't able to get the shot as their tracker driver was moving the vehicle and it was too shaky for them to get a focused shot.
Everyone was disappointed.  We, because we missed all the action, and them, because they couldn't show us the proof.  "No picture, no proof!". (Jungle law!)

We started heading back to the main gate and, just before we got there, we finally saw elephants on the left, about 150 yards away.  Sylvia yelled, "Stop!" and happily snapped away at the small family....3 little ones, 2 females, and a male.  So, Den had accomplished what he set out to do and we happily showed him our appreciation! (Tips, people! Come on, this is a clean blog!)




Back at the lodge, we hungrily ate up our buffet breakfasts and enjoyed a good coffee and then looked forward to a relaxing day by the pool....there is so little spare time, it was a real treat.  I did some writing, of course.  Others shopped, some had massages, some went to the Safari Lodge pool to check it out, some stayed by our pool and some went back out on an afternoon safari to track down more elephants (rumour had it that the group of 7 who had passed on Victoria Falls did a self-drive game drive and came across a herd of at least 400 elephants!!!)  Sylvia was not letting that go without seeing it so she and Brian, Richard and Alesa headed out on another drive to find them.  (And apparently they did....drove right through a massive herd of them with a little trepidation but totally exhilarating for Sylvia!)

For dinner, the group all headed over to the sister Safari Lodge to their buffet for a change of pace and enjoyed a great meal with some good laughs and more G&T's!

Tomorrow.....Hallowe'en and another relaxing day....ahhh......JT


Day Twenty-Six - Victoria Falls via Zimbabwe

Breakfast at 7 am, departure at 8:30 am headed for the Zimbabwe border.  There were 5 vehicles in the convoy today (20 out of 27 of us were going as the others had been before).  It was a gorgeous sunny day with a light breeze and we were all looking forward to a great day!

We were only a 10 minute drive from the border and getting out of Botswana was not too complicated.  We did the drill of all going in and getting our passports stamped and the driver doing the extra paperwork and then having to stop at the exit gate to hand in the slip.

We drove through the border exit gate and entered Kazungula Border Crossing, the entrance to Zimbabwe and one of the few countries in the world that is NOT friendly to Canadians!  We have no idea of how good we have it at home.  It was a little unnerving when saying we were Canadian was not met with the usual smiles and hospitality.

We knew that we had to pay $75 USF for our entry visa.  And Michael had set aside funds for each vehicle payment but, when he was approached by someone who he thought was an official who quoted him 3 times what the vehicle fee was, he knew he was being scammed.  He turned that fellow down only to be approached by another who said he had to deal with him.  Michael politely declined and said he would deal with the official behind the window.

What some of us saw and Michael didn't, was that the fellow immediately got on the phone and we believe phoned the guy behind the desk to "report" what happened.  Instead of the $55 Michael was prepared for, the official told him $ 145 per vehicle.  The back and forth began and went on for about an hour.  Michael finally got him down to $95.00 and then the guy told Michael that he had to pay him $75 personally!  Michael refused and they had a silent stand off for about 15 minutes.  Finally, Michael told him $25 and no more and the guy begrudgingly took it.  Meanwhile, the rest of us were sitting in our vehicles outside with the air conditioning on wondering what the heck was going on but there was absolutely nothing we could do.

Finally, Roger (remember? Michael's "got your back" guy) came out with our passports and told us to start pulling out.  Then we waited in line for another 10 minutes until the vehicle clearance papers came through.  We couldn't wait to get out of there!  We had pulled in at 9:05 and we finally made it through at 11:15!

Another half hour and we pulled into the luxurious historical Victoria Falls Hotel.  Gorgeous grounds fenced in with African orange brick and a beautiful white hotel with stunningly huge old growth trees that spread their branches over half the grounds.  Other flowering trees with beautiful orange and purple blossoms added splashes of colour to the white background of the hotel.  It was picturesque and one could envision one's self in a movie from the early 1900's.

Walking through the hotel was like walking through time.  A full length portrait of Queen Victoria hung by the main lounge and flags from the different British Colonies lined the hallways.  The main dining room was elaborately decorated with chandeliers, brocade, rich red velvets on dark wood and silver and crystal place settings on crisp, white tablecloths circa the Titanic.

Continuing through the hotel, we came out on an open-air patio with tables and chairs overlooking massive green grounds with the same gargantuan shade trees and beyond that, way off in the distance, was a huge gorge with the famous bridge connecting Zimbabwe and Zambia.

Our two tables were set and ready for us off to one side of the patio and we enjoyed a lovely chicken Caesar salad with G&T's in the gentle breeze overlooking this magnificent view.  After our coffee and dessert (rich chocolate brownie and amazing vanilla ice cream with candied orange rind), we headed off down a dirt path towards Victoria Falls.

A 10-minute walk (through a gauntlet of local artists trying to sell us their wood carvings of various animals) to the gates of Victoria Falls and a $30 USF or 300 Rand (South African currency) entrance fee and we were getting closer!


We followed a stone path through the wooded area and suddenly came to a view point where we saw the first show of the falls and they were stunning!  One tributary was raging over the top and you could hear the sound, feel the power and even get a bit of moistness from the spray!  As we drew nearer, we could see the water tumbling with great force over the edge, causing a huge upsurge of spray that caught the sunlight and caused a rainbow in the mist!  Then there was the gorge, itself, with the gorge walls going straight down from the flats of the area just like the Grand Canyon with the raging river below.  And further along, there was a larger falls that spread across the grounds similar to Niagara Falls. 




There was a path to follow and one viewpoint after another getting you closer to the bigger falls area but also allowing different view points of all sides of the different fall paths.  If you look at a bird's eye view of Victoria Falls, you will see that they cover a vast area of land and have many different "fall" areas.  The time of year also dictates the intensity and magnitude of the falls as they are significantly larger in the rainy season, of course!


Victoria Falls is bordered by Zambia and Zimbabwe and a person can go to either country to see them.  The group had entered from the Zambia side last time so this was a new experience for everyone.  We took individual shots as well as group photos.  I stood in one viewpoint and got wet in the mist that was like a gentle rain.  At the last view point we visited, we could see a group of people who pay to be taken by the locals into a pool of water just beside the edge of the falls.   I can't imagine doing something so risky.   Apparently, about six months ago, a young woman got caught up in a sudden surge of water and was swept over.  How unbelievably tragic and senseless.   Seeing their grandeur and beauty was exciting enough for me!




Soon, it was time for us to leave as we had to get back across the border before dark (sunset is about 6:30 pm) and we weren't sure how complicated the procedure might be getting out of the country!

Fortunately, they don't "graft" you on the way out and, other than a slight delay because their computers went down as soon as we arrived, we got through fairly quickly.  On the Botswana side, we again had to drive through the foot and mouth disease "tire bath".  And this time, we also had to get out of our cars and step into a shoe "wash" ourselves.  Quite the process going through those borders.  Don't think I'll complain again about the US/Canada border crossing.......

Got home and had a nice refreshing shower and decided to eat at the sister Safari Lodge across the road.  Enjoyed a fun evening with some of the gang and lots of stories were told but they cannot be repeated here......:)

The adventure continues.......JT
Day Twenty-Five:   Safaris in Chobe National Park

Morning safaris here are 6 - 9 am so no breakfast beforehand.  We left at 6 sharp and, unfortunately, missed Brian and Sylvia in the head count due to the 4 vehicles constantly jockeying positions as they prepared to leave the hotel.  We arrived within 15 minutes at the gate but had to do some quick thinking to figure out how to get them to us.  Fortunately, the guides were on the ball, had them picked up and they pulled in a few minutes later and we were on our way.

We headed into the park with our tracker, Den, a very nice well-informed guide determined to find us what we wanted....cats....of the big variety!

On the way, we took the sandy road just above the water's edge so that we could look for animals drinking on the right as well as keep an eye on the high ground to the left for animals heading down to the water.  There were plenty of impala as well as waterbok and some huge water buffalo and some hippos off in the distance on the island in the middle of  the Chobe River.

There were also birds of many shapes, sizes and varieties.  Let's see ......one of the most beautiful birds is the lilac-breasted roller with its amazing phosphorescent blue and green wings and blush-coloured chest.  It is small and looks quite plain until it spreads its wings to fly and the sun catches the colour in the wings and they shine out like a bright spray of vibrant colour!  There's the red-billed horn beak, the grey-hooded kingfisher, the African spoonbill, the morning dove, the black-winged stilt, the spur-winged goose, the sandpiper, the glossy ibis and the brown Egyptian goose.   Larger birds are the white-backed vulture, the African fish eagle (very similar to our eagle), the yellow-billed stork, the open-billed stork, the Maribu stork and the great white egret.  And, of course, my absolute favourite - the lily trotter (think I called it a lily jumper in a former blog - my bad!).  Last but not least, the guinea fowl - looks like a cousin of our Canadian pheasant - plain grey with little white spots but the most beautiful little bright blue head you can see when you get up close.






We spotted another pod of hippos and the guide explained that a dominant male may have up to 20 females in his pod that he keeps under guard from other males.  A hippo travels mostly at night when it is cool to get its food.  It travels up to 20 km. a night from the water and can eat up to 130 kg. a night.  It stays in the water during the day to stay out of the heat of the sun as its skin is actually very thin, almost pink, and can burn and cause pain.  (Other names for groups of hippos are: school, raft or thumb).

We also saw a few crocs but from a distance.  They can grow up to 30 m. long and up to 120 years in age.  The female will lay her eggs in a hole she digs in the sand on the bank of the river.  She then guards the site for almost 3 months before the 60-80 eggs she's lain hatch.  She then takes the young into the water and stays with them for only about 3 weeks before she leaves them on their own.  Only roughly 10-20 % survive.

We gradually drove away from the river and up to a safe (?) site for a coffee/tea break and then back into the safari vehicle.  Suddenly, Den told us there had been a leopard spotting and he took off with us in the vehicle holding on for dear life!  We bounced around as he drove around bushes and in soft sand (like mud) before we came across a number of vehicles stopped up ahead.

Den was on the shortwave trying to get the low-down on the leopard from the other guides and he explained to us the leopard was in a low growth green bush about 40 feet away.  The bush was very dense and it was unbelievably hard to try to make out a leopard when he was so well-hidden but I finally spotted (pardon the pun) what I believed was a part of him so I took the shot!   Eileen, who was sitting behind me, also caught a glimpse of him and got a shot and then very kindly offered to take a photo for someone else who wasn't in the right position.  She took the picture and got the best shot yet!

The leopard was very hard to see but we saw what we could of him and it was exciting!  We went back to the lodge for coffee and breakfast and to share the stories of our adventures!

Break time until our 3 pm river safari was spent by the gang getting to know the area.  Some walked a few blocks to a bank at a nearby mall to get pula, the local currency, (not puma, which I mistakenly blurted out and it seemed to stick!).  Others explored the local artisans' huts and did some shopping. Then there were the poolside people who soaked up some rays before cooling off in the pool.  Then we all gathered again for the afternoon cruise.

We walked across the road to the sister lodge, Chobe Safari Lodge, through their lobby, past the pool and down onto the dock on the river.  We all loaded into one large pontoon boat and headed out on the Chobe River.

It wasn't long before we were seeing huge crocs on the river banks and we were able to get up to only a few feet away!  On the island, on the opposite river bank were hippos out of the water grazing on the grass and high reeds.  There were a large number of Cape buffalo (not water buffalo) grazing on the island as well and, again, we were able to get up very close and get fabulous pictures!



The sights and scenes were incredible!  There was waterbok as well as the African fish eagle and the great white egret along with the kingfisher and the lilac-breasted roller.  The next thing we knew, a lone elephant was making its way down to the water's edge so the guide headed over that way to get closer.  The elephant actually "jogged" down the beach to a soft, grassy area and stopped.  Then it stuck its trunk in the water and began drinking and bathing itself and we were only about 60 feet away!  I took video because pictures, alone, don't capture the whole essence of what's happening and it was incredible!



We were all transfixed watching this show until he finally lumbered away off into the distance.

We turned around and went back the way we'd come and continued getting fabulous pics of the hippos in and out of the water (I'd never seen hippos on land grazing before - very cool).  And seeing so many Cape buffalo was also a treat.

Then our guide manoeuvred the pontoon to get the best sunset shots we could with different animals and very African-looking trees in the foreground.  All in all, it was probably the best river safari of the trip and we talked about it all through dinner!



Tomorrow......Victoria Falls!......am so excited!.........JT


Day Twenty-FourRoad To Botswana and Chobe National Park

The morning we left Kwando from our Kaisosi Lodge river front chalets was both exciting but sad. The camp had lovely wood balconies overlooking the river with big huge trees offering shade and landing sites for different birds - some small and colourful, some larger and loud and annoying like the grey parrot that would complain loudly when you occupied the space below "his" tree.  (One even tried to poop on Alesa when she was lying in one of the comfortable hammocks they had tied to trees near the pool rest area!).

I loved sitting in one particular chair at the front of the curved balcony where I could put my feet up and watch the lily jumper bird going from lily pad to lily pad looking for small waterbugs.  With his burnt orange colour and his three, very long talons on his feet, he could stay afloat on the lily pads just long enough for a quick bite and then move on.  He was a joy to watch and so it was the last thing I did the morning we left.

We were excited to be going to a different country but weren't sure what to expect at the border.   Fortunately, we were only a few hours from the border so it was an easy drive.  We started seeing more warthogs as they seem to like the grassier, moister climate.

When we got to the border, we all had to get out and take our passports to have them stamped to exit Namibia.  The drivers had to fill out an extra form and register the vehicle.  Then they had to stop at the exit gate and hand in that paper.  Then we drove through a disinfectant "bath" for the car wheels to be cleansed of possible foot and mouth disease and then we again had to stop at the Botswana side and repeat the process of individual check-in and driver check-in of the vehicle and again stop at the entry gates to hand in the driver form and finally we were through and driving in Botswana.

We drove over a long bridge over beautiful green fields which, during the rainy season, is all water and is the Chobe River, the natural border between Namibia and Botswana.

It was only another short hour and a half that we arrived in Kasane and the Chobe Bush Lodge, a brand new addition to the Chobe Safari Lodge.  It was beautiful with wood floors, high-beamed ceilings and huge thatched roofs in the main reception and dining area.

There was a nice pool with a sunning patio and chaise lounge chairs.  Our rooms were gorgeous with all the amenities - huge bathroom with soaker tub, glassed-in shower and private toilet along with a big sink area and mirrors.  A large desk side table as well as a chair and end table were also in the room and a spacious balcony looked out over the park where you could actually watch the animals from (when they came around!).  Oh, and blessed air conditioning which we were so grateful for in the sweltering 37 - 43 degree heat!!!

Warthogs roam freely around the property and I mean freely!  The first day I went to the pool to get some sun, one was wondering the pool deck and rolling in a mud bath in the garden.

Later on, when we drove into town to get some money from a local bank, there was actually a huge warthog waiting at a crosswalk and looking both ways as if literally waiting for traffic to stop for him.  It was hilarious-looking and I was so disappointed I had left my camera in the hotel!

We were told we could not go into the pool past 6 pm because the animals can come down to drink and it is too dangerous to risk confrontation with them!  We didn't need to be told twice!!!

Unfortunately, the internet is only available at reception and, even then, is very sporadic, hence, the delay in blog-posting.....so sorry......JT